C2C 101: How to C2C

C2C 101: How to C2C

C2C 101: How to C2C

There is something really magical about a C2C project. It certainly looks like it’s magic. Of course, I think all crochet work is magical. But it’s really not that hard once you get the hang of it. I promise.

What is C2C crochet? C2C means corner 2 corner. Instead of working from right to left or in the round a C2C is worked diagonally in blocks.

Now here are a few basic things you should know:

  • I think the most important thing to understand is that C2C is really only 2 types of blocks. Artfully arranged blocks to be sure but, still only 2. 1 of which is only used to make your piece wider and/or taller


  • There is a lot of talking about decreasing in C2C. Let’s be clear. There is NO decreasing. If you are a stitcher like me a decrease means joining 2 stitches together to become 1. That is not what is happening in C2C. You simply stop increasing.


  • When you stop increasing on the bottom then that’s as wide as it’s ever going to be. When you stop increasing on the side then that’s as tall as its ever going to be.


  • Want a square? Stop increasing on both sides at the same time.


  • Want it wider rather than taller? When it is as tall as you like then keep increasing on the bottom (making it wider) and stop increasing on the side (height is now set).


  • Want it taller than it is wide? Stop increasing on the bottom (width set) and keep increasing on the side.


  • What about these C2C Patterns? You need one if you want to create a design in your piece. You can, and absolutely should for your 1st C2C, use 1 color for 1 piece. No need for a pattern – just increase and then maintain status quo when it’s the width/height you want. These blocks can literally be used for many things. A scarf. A pillow. A little lapghan. Baby blanket. A big afghan…… You get my point.


  • Is this the only stitch to make a C2C block? Nope. And before that scares you let me explain. I’m teaching you the standard C2C block with 6 chains and 3 DC’s here. But, you can use many variations. For example: I like the DC block but I only use a chain 5 for increase blocks and chain 2 for regular C2C blocks. This leaves a smaller gap which I like. You can also use an HDC instead. Or a moss stitch. Many possibilities!


  • Now, when you are following a pattern it’s important to understand that you are basically working off a grid. Think of the graph for a cross stitch pattern. Each square is a block. You begin with the 1st block and that first block will always be the right, bottom corner block. In fact, if you prefer, you can use our cross stitch charts as your pattern. Not all Cross Stitch charts will be a good idea for C2C – most have way to many colors and the end project could be humungous.

C2C Increase Block:

  1. Chain 6
  2. DC into the 4th chain from the hook
  3. DC in the next 2 chains


The increase block is to be used only at the beginning of a new row and only IF you want to continue increasing the height and/or width of your project. A project is always started with the increase block.

This 1 block is the entire 1st row. I highly recommend putting a stitch marker on the right side of this block. That way when you are dazed and confused about who what when where and how you can orient yourself to the project. Trust me.

Begin the next row with an increase block I think this is the hardest part to twist your mind around when doing C2C. Don’t be too concerned though, once you understand what’s going on it will make complete sense.

I’m sure you’ve noticed I’m changing colors. If this is your first time doing a C2C I would just use 1 color while you get the hang of it. I just wanted to make sure that you can clearly see different rows.

When you are ready here is C2C 103: How to change colors

C2C Block

You are still on row 2 and you need to make a regular C2C block. You are now looking at the wrong side of your work. Easy to tell what’s happening because we are looking at the back of the stitch marker. To make a C2C block all you do is:

  1. Chain 3
  2. DC 3x’s in the chain space from previous block

Turn your work over and you can orient yourself to the bottom and side of your work. You will always start a new row with an increase block while you are increasing height and width.

Row 3 (and all other rows until you stop increasing)
1. Make 1 increase C2C block, flip work so that you can slip stitch to top of chain.
2. Make a C2C block, slip stitch to top of chain. Repeat to end of row.

Orient yourself

This is my swatch after 7 rows. Notice the boxes – those are increase blocks and the arrow shows the flow of the row and how it ends either on the top or on the side of the increase block of the previous row. Notice also how the orange rows go from left to right and the yellow rows go from right to left. This is going to be 7 blocks by 7 blocks, so I will stop increasing both on the bottom and on the side.

Stop Increasing

This is as high and as wide as I want this so I’m going to stop increasing. Now, I’m sure you see the obvious problem that your hook is not in the right position to stop increasing. You simply slip stitch up the block, along the new side. Then your hook will be in the correct position. Then continue on with the C2C blocks, stopping when you have completed 6 blocks. Do not put a block on top of the increase block of the previous row. You are no longer increasing. If you complete 7 blocks (like you would have on an increase row) then the piece would be 8 blocks high – not 7 as it needs to be.

Complete the Square

To complete the square continue on in the same manner. Slip stitch to position. Complete C2C blocks to end of row.

There you have it. You can now C2C. Little addicting isn’t it? Next lesson: 
C2C 102: Increase your square into a rectangle

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